SAPIOMATICA Exhibition
NYU Steinhardt - Costume Studies
Fashion, or the Enchanting Spectacle of the Code is an exhibition that explores postmodern fashion through the perspective of Baudrillard's 1976 essay of the same name. The exhibition features nine case studies that pair a functional garment alongside contemporary designs that reference it. These pairings demonstrate how clothing has come to symbolize more than just its practical function, and has evolved to reflect psychological, sociological, and political ideas. The case studies invite viewers to examine fashion as a lens into the contemporary zeitgeist and to consider the underlying cultural meanings behind their own fashion choices, which now, more than ever, are tools we use to navigate unusual and stressful times. The exhibition seeks to challenge Baudrillard's claim that fashion is "the goal-less stake of a signification without a message." Instead, it reveals that fashion is a rich source of information about the times in which we live.
Left
Lion Group, Inc. (American, founded 1898), Honeywell (American, founded 1885), The Washington Group (American), Bunker gear, 2022
Jacket and trousers of black woven Kevlar and Nomex appliquéd with yellow Viz-a-V high-visibility striping and logo; helmet of black plastic with metal hardware, neon yellow high-visibility adhesive stickers, and leather badge; hood of tan PBI knit with black serged stitching; gloves of black leather outer with Lite N Dri padding and Kovenex thermal liner; boots of black leather, rubber and steel.
Courtesy New York City Fire Museum
Right
Stephanie J. Kim (Korean, born America, 1991), Ensemble, 2022
Jumpsuit of green translucent plastic with plastic piping, metal hardware, cotton twill tape, and elastic cord; bodysuit of gray polyester plain weave with metallic copper, and metallic nickel.
Courtesy Stephanie J. Kim, Undereyedot
HERO
Firefighters have left an indelible impression on the cultural memory of America. An example of their bunker gear is displayed here and features an oversized jacket and pair of trousers with reflective striping and utility pockets, as well as thick leather steel–toed boots and domed helmet. The protective gear with layers of specially formulated materials allows these professionals to respond to life threatening disasters. News reports of their acts of heroism paired with media representations like Chicago Fire, Ladder 49, and 9-1-1, have imbued their iconic uniforms with connotations of heroes prepared for any disaster. Young children clamber to climb up onto their iconic red trucks and dream of wearing the uniform, hoping that by donning costume facsimiles, they too will take on the characteristics of altruism, heroism, and preparedness.
NOMAD
Designer Stephanie J. Kim found inspiration for her “Sapiomatica” collection from the jumpsuits and oversized utility wear of firefighters and pilots. She translated these uniforms that conjure ideas of altruistic heroism into a collection that evokes the protection and preparedness necessary for a nomadic post–apocalyptic future. The rippling exterior jumpsuit emulates the fullness of the firefighters jackets and pants, with room to hold all that is necessary for a life on the run. The interior bodysuit, made from military–grade RF radiation shielding fabric, exposes the otherwise unseen protection necessary for a life fraught with impending disaster.
Thank you NYU!